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Dining
New York is a rich port city that can get the best foodstuffs from anywhere in the world, and, as a major immigration gateway, it attracts chefs who know how to cook the world's cuisines properly, even exceptionally. As you stroll through the streets of New York, heavenly odors seem to emanate from every corner; it's not hard to work up an appetite.
Outside of American and continental cuisines (more or less including New American, which can either dazzle with its inventive fusions or fail miserably and pretentiously), be prepared to confront a startling variety of ethnic food. In New York, none has had so dominant an effect as Jewish food, to the extent that many Jewish specialties - bagels, pastrami, lox and cream cheese - are now considered archetypal New York. Others retain more specific identities. Chinese food includes the familiar Cantonese, as well as spicier Szechuan and Hunan dishes - most restaurants specialize in one or the other. Japanese food is widely available and very good; other Asian cuisines include Indian and a broad sprinkling of Thai, Korean, Vietnamese and Indonesian restaurants.
Italian cooking is widespread and not terribly expensive, and typically a fairly safe bet. French restaurants tend to be pricier, although there are an increasing number of bistros and brasseries turning out authentic and reliable French nosh for attractive prices. Somewhat similar in spirit are Belgian brasseries and steak frites joints, a surprising number of which opened in the last half-decade (and many of which subsequently closed).
There is also a whole range of Eastern European restaurants - Russian, Ukrainian, Polish and Hungarian - that serve well-priced, filling fare. Caribbean, Central and South American restaurants are on the rise in New York, and often offer a good deal and a large, satisfying and often spicy meal. Other places include weird hybrids like Chinese-Peruvian, Japanese-Brazilian, and any number of vegetarian and wholefood eateries to cater to any taste or fad.
As for where you'll be going for these foods, we've divided our selections by neighborhood (and then cuisine), and have given very brief descriptions for what you might expect to find in those areas. For the most part you won't have to walk very far to find a good place in almost any district, but many of the ones listed here are worth a trip on the subway or in a cab.
Big Nick's 2175 Broadway (between 76th and 77th sts) tel 212/362-9238.
If you want a hamburger or pizza on the Upper West Side, this is a fun, New York kind of place. In his crowded, chaotic little wooden-table restaurant, Big Nick has been serving them up all night long to locals for 20-plus years.
Boat Basin Café 79th St at the Hudson River (access through Riverside Park) tel 212/496-5542.
An outdoor restaurant, open May through Sept, with informal tables covered in red-and-white checked cloths, some under a sheltering overhang. The food is standard, but inexpensive considering the prime location - burgers with fries ($7.75), hot dogs, sandwiches and some more serious entrees like grilled salmon ($14.50).
Boathouse Café Central Park Lake (E 72nd St entrance) tel 212/517-2233.
Peaceful retreat from a hard day's trudging around the Fifth Avenue museums. You get great views of the famous Central Park skyline and decent American/continental cuisine, but at very steep prices. Closed from Oct to March.
Dock's Oyster Bar 2427 Broadway (between 89th and 90th sts) tel 212/724-5588; also 633 3rd Ave (at 40th St) tel 212/986-8080.
Some of the best seafood in town at this popular uptown restaurant, with a raw bar, great mussels and a wide variety of high-quality fresh fish. The Upper West Side is the original and tends to have the homier atmosphere - though both can be noisy and service can be slow. Reservations recommended on weekends.
Tom's Restaurant 2880 Broadway (at 112th St) tel 212/864-6137.
Cheap, greasy-spoon fare. This is the Tom's of Seinfeld fame, usually filled with students from Columbia and tourists. Great breakfast deals - a large meal for under $6.
Hunan Park 235 Columbus Ave (between 70th and 71st sts) tel 212/724-4411.
Some of the best Chinese food on the Upper West Side is served here, in a large, crowded room, with typically quick service and moderate prices. Try the spicy noodles in sesame sauce and the dumplings. A good, less-expensive option within a few blocks of Lincoln Center.
Jaya 494 Amsterdam Ave (at 84th St) tel 212/769-9585.
A good standby in this part of town if you're craving Malaysian or Indonesian food - neither a cuisine you find that often in Manhattan. Reasonably priced, too.
Café con Leche 424 Amsterdam Ave (at 80th St) tel 212/595-7000.
Great neighborhood Dominican that serves fantastic roast pork, rice and beans, and some of the hottest chili sauce you've ever tasted. Cheap and very cheerful.
Calle Ocho 446 Columbus Ave (between 81st and 82nd sts) tel 212/873-5025.
Very tasty Latino fare, such as ceviches and chimchuri steak with yucca fries, is served in an immaculately designed and a hopping bar, whose mojitos are as potent as any in the city.
La Caridad 2199 Broadway (at 78th St) tel 212/874-2780.
This is something of an Upper West Side institution, a tacky, no-frills eatery that doles out plentiful and cheap Cuban-Chinese food to hungry diners (the Cuban is better than the Chinese). Bring your own beer, and expect to wait in line.
Café Luxembourg 200 W 70th St (between Amsterdam and West End aves) tel 212/873-7411.
Trendy Lincoln Center area bistro that packs in (literally) a self-consciously hip crowd to enjoy its first-rate contemporary French food. Not too pricey - two people can eat for $60 or so.
Jean Georges Trump International Hotel, 1 Central Park West (between 60th and 61st sts) tel 212/299-3900.
This is French at its finest, crafted by star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Definitely the place for a special occasion when you don't mind dropping a pretty penny. For the more money conscious, the front-room, Nougatine has a prix-fixe summer brunch for $20. But whatever you do, don't miss the rhubarb tart for dessert.
Mughlai 320 Columbus Ave (at 75th St) tel 212/724-6363.
Uptown, upscale Indian with prices about the going rate for this strip: $11-16 an entree. The food, though, is surprisingly good.
Gennaro 665 Amsterdam Ave (between 92nd and 93rd sts) tel 212/665-5348.
A tiny outpost of truly great Italian food, with room only for about fifty people (and thus perpetual lines to get in). Standouts include a warm potato, mushroom and goat cheese tart (incredible) and braised lamb shank in red wine. The desserts are also worth the wait. Moderate prices - open for dinner only.
Barney Greengrass 541 Amsterdam Ave (between 86th and 87th sts) tel 212/724-4707.
A West Side deli and restaurant that's been around since time began. The smoked salmon section is a particular treat. Cheese blintzes are tasty too.
Fine & Schapiro 138 W 72nd St (between Broadway and Columbus Ave) tel 212/877-2721.
Longstanding Jewish deli that's open for lunch and dinner and serves delicious old-fashioned kosher fare - an experience that's getting harder to find in New York. Great chicken soup.
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